These days, there are almost too many types of hair extensions to count, each with its own required level of maintenance and installment technique. Clip-ins, sew-ins, and wigs with 360 lace frontals are just a few of the options at your disposal. But there's another hair extension method that has become immensely popular — micro-links.
While scrolling through Instagram or TikTok, you may have noticed videos of folks running their fingers through what looks like their own hair until they reveal the tiny bundles held together by even tinier tubes at their scalps. Those are micro-links. The extensions are placed just at the roots to give you easy access to your scalp when it comes time to wash.
Though we've been seeing this style a lot on social media lately, micro link hair extensions are nothing new. Virginia-based hairstylist LaShaundra "Shauney" Harris, who has been installing the extensions for 16 years, credits social media as key to the style's increase in popularity, which she initially noticed in 2014. "When I was doing micro-links, it was a hidden secret. It was the celebrity secret," she shares. "Most people who wore micro-links didn't broadcast that they were wearing them because they look and feel so natural." Most people who wore the style back then heard about it through word of mouth or hairstylists advertising the service, according to Harris.
Now, if you search micro-links on social media or browse the #microlinks and #microlinkextensions hashtags, there are tens of thousands of posts showcasing the technique. On Tiktok, #microlinks has 54.8 million views — #microlink has 4.7 million. There are also several other hashtags to browse like #microlinksweftextensions and #microlinksextensions, which also boast thousands of views.
In a world full of wigs and sew-ins, micro-links are a different way to wear hair extensions. Here's everything you need to know about the style to determine if it might work for you.
What are micro-links?
There are two main types of micro-link extensions: i-tips and wefts. In general, Harris classifies micro-links as "any type of [hair] extension method that is attached with a microbead or a microtube." These beads or microtubes are typically made of aluminum or copper and coated with black and brown ink so they seamlessly blend with your own hair color, she explains.
The weft method of installation involves using microbeads to attach tracks of hair to the client's head. The i-tip method, in which both Harris and Texas-based hairstylist Tomeka Gantt specialize, requires attaching small extensions or i-tipped hair to tiny sections of the client's own hair using a microbead or microtube.
Who are micro-links best for?
If you're not used to spending a fair amount of time caring for your own hair, this probably isn't the style for you. "If you don't want to commit to maintenance or coming into the salon to make sure you're getting your hair done, then it's not the right fit for you," Gantt says.
You can get this style installed regardless of your hair texture, but your actual hair must be long enough, and your scalp has to be in good health, too. If you're struggling with hair loss or excessive shedding, you should probably consider another technique. Gantt requires six inches of stretched (pulled, twisted, braided, or blown out to its full length) hair in order to install micro-links. She also won't work on anyone with alopecia or bald spots because the style can potentially aggravate those areas.
Harris, on the other hand, will install micro-links on a client who has bald spots, but only if they've received the green light from their dermatologist. Other than that, no dice. As for hair length, she recommends about three to five inches, stretched out, but she shares that some stylists simply have an "if I can grab it, I can do it" policy.
How are micro-links installed?
The installation process for micro-links can vary based on the client's needs, the desired length, or the volume they're looking for. Each method requires a different technique. For the weft method, "[the stylist] will take small sections of [the client's] hair, apply the bead, and then attach the weft to that," Gantt explains.
She typically uses the i-tip method, which involves working with smaller pieces of hair, but the process of attaching the beads is roughly the same. "I attach the microbeads with the i-tip [hair] extension to their natural hair with hair pliers," she says.
When Harris applies the i-tip, she sections the hair 20 to 30 strands each, then slides it through the bead. Next, she'll add the hair extension and clamp it all together. In general, Harris says if the client is looking for volume and to add just a few extensions (about 75 to 100 pieces), the process can take about two to three hours. Clients looking for a full head of hair or additional length on short styles can expect to be in the chair for up to eight hours.
What kind of hair can you use?
Though many videos of micro-links tend to feature straight or wavy textures, curly and kinky options also exist. It wasn't always this way, but due to a higher demand for them from people with these textures, it's easier than ever to find a match. Harris likes to work with Mercy's Hair Extensions because they have options for looser curls as well as tighter kinks and coils. She recommends this particular brand to clients because the quality is top-notch, but they are also more than welcome to buy hair from other retailers they find and bring it for the service.
How do you care for micro-link extensions?
There are a couple of things to keep in mind with micro-link extensions. Though they are a great way to change up your look, please note they absolutely do not count as a low-maintenance protective style, something both Harris and Gantt emphasize. "It is a style that is going to require them to take care of their natural hair outside of the salon," Gantt says. But that doesn't mean the upkeep is excessively arduous. It just requires actual care — you have to be diligent about maintenance in between touch-ups, which can be done at a salon or at home.
For straight and wavy textures, Harris recommends brushing twice every day to minimize tangles and monster snarls. "With any type of hair, the more you don't brush it or detangle it throughout the day, the worse it gets," she explains. You probably don't want to run a brush through curly or kinky textures especially without any product, but Harris suggests using a spray bottle to spritz the hair with water and separating the curls by hand to make sure they maintain their form.
As for shampooing, a large focus of the routine is making sure you don't tangle your hair during the washing phase. Gantt recommends sectioning your hair into four and working the shampoo in each section. She warns against using circular motions to massage the scalp as that can mess up the i-tips and make detangling much more difficult. Instead, scrub the scalp horizontally to make sure you're eliminating product buildup and work the shampoo onto the hair extension in an up-and-down motion. The same goes for conditioning: section off the hair, add the product, rinse, and repeat.
Harris isn't explicitly anti circular motions but says you should only do this directly at the scalp and in between the extensions. She recommends using a clarifying shampoo as well since it will thoroughly cleanse the hair. While conditioning, she suggests using a Denman brush to get through any snarls and knots in the hair.
At night, you can either braid or plop the hair into a messy bun and use a satin scarf or bonnet to keep it protected, according to Harris. She doesn't recommend sleeping with your hair out because that can damage the hair quality or simply make detangling a headache. Gantt suggests a similar routine, noting you can simply sleep on a silk pillowcase if that's easier. For straight textures, wrapping it up before sleeping is the way to go. Curly and kinky textures should be braided into two or four sections before adding the protective head covering or lying down on a silk or satin pillowcase.
As for products, both recommend anything that is sulfate-free. Harris also says to avoid parabens and alcohol as well because they can dry out the hair. Alcohol can also ruin the microbeads and loosen their hold. If you're looking for specific products, both stylists recommend any of Olaplex's products because they can take care of the extensions and your own hair.
How often do you need to get micro-links reinstalled?
The frequency of your touch-ups or timing of your reinstallation can vary. Harris's rule of thumb is every four to six weeks, but ultimately it's up to the client. When her clients come in, she'll shampoo, readjust the beads as needed, and style the hair. If a deeper treatment is necessary or the client is seeking a relaxer touch-up or color change, then the style will need to be taken down and completely reinstalled.
Gantt suggests four, six, or eight weeks for the readjustments. She offers tightening services depending on what's needed and how the hair looks. If you want a cut, she'll remove the beads, do the trim, and reinstall everything.
With the right hair, you can reuse your extensions for up to a year or even three, especially with straighter or wavier textures, Harris says. Unfortunately, the curly and kinky textures can have a shorter lifespan — some of the extensions are permed by the manufacturer so the curls and coils can fall out quicker. She recommends switching those out at around the six-month mark. Gantt says after six months, she recommends new hair because by then the extension may not be useable.
How much do micro-link extensions cost?
As with many hair extensions, micro-links cost a pretty penny. Though it depends on the stylist, keep in mind you're paying for the hair and the service. Some stylists will offer hair while others ask you to buy your own ahead of the install appointment. The cost will ultimately depend on the length and density you desire. Harris typically charges anywhere from $750 to $850 for the service with an additional $300 to $500 for hair. Gantt's prices range $500 to $2500. TL;DR: save your coins if you plan on getting these extensions.
Though micro-links have been in the hair extension game for a while, their introduction to the mainstream is giving folks other options to transform their hair. With this technique, you can get the appearance of longer and more voluminous hair without losing the ability to wash and style as you please.
This story was originally published in Allure.com
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